08/07/2026
Wild Southern Bluefin Tuna | 天然ミナミマグロ.
Off southern Tasmania, fine Southern Bluefin comes ashore from June to August. For me, winter is the season when two of the finest ingredients of this land, black truffle and wild Southern Bluefin, arrive together.
For most of my career I used wild Pacific Bluefin (天然クロマグロ) from Japan, and high-quality farmed Bluefin. Aquaculture has advanced enormously, and much of the otoro, 大トロ, served in Japan today is excellent farmed fish. It is remarkable, consistent, and I am grateful for it. Wild Pacific Bluefin, though, is limited and very expensive, and harder to enjoy than before.
But the wild Southern Bluefin of Tasmania holds a different appeal.
Above all, it is the quality of the fat. The marbling is fine and beautiful, at first glance the fish looks extremely fatty. In the mouth, that impression changes completely. The fat is astonishingly refined, without heaviness. It melts slowly, and the finish is very clean. The deep umami of the red flesh, 赤身, and the natural sweetness of the fat sit in perfect balance, you can eat slice after slice without tiring of it.
If you have eaten wild tuna before, you will recognise this fine melt and the clear finish. This delicate fat, I feel, belongs to wild Southern Bluefin alone.
This block was still early in its ageing, 熟成, yet already superb. Another seven to ten days, and the umami would have deepened further, fat and red flesh drawing together into a more complete taste.
That evening, six guests from Singapore ate this tuna with us. The idea was simple, eat as much as you wish. They asked for another serving, and then another. They enjoyed it so thoroughly that they were too full to finish the main dish. A little regrettable, and proof of how satisfied they were.
As a cook, the moment a guest smiles and says “delicious” is the greatest joy there is.
And above all, I love this fish. Each one carries its own character, a taste that belongs only to that fish, on that day, in that season. The same taste will never come around twice. That 一期一会, ichigo ichie, a meeting that happens once and never again, is, I believe, the great appeal of wild Southern Bluefin.
- Kazumasa