19/09/2023
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For me, the Chiquibul forest is always best before dawn.
I awake to the chirps of the crickets, whine of katydids and desperate croak of a frog that has yet to find a mate; the chorus of birdsong begins with a single instrument - the mournful notes of the tinamou - but soon swells to the level of an orchestra with warblers, wrens, woodpeckers and parakeets joining in. The roar of howler monkeys plays to the nearby rush of rapids at the concrete Quacamayo Bridge over the Macal River. As I heat the water for my morning coffee by headlamp and set up my tripod and wide-angle lens, I watch for the sun to burn through the fog covering the hills, and bask in the natural music of the jungle waking up.
Many endangered animals call the Chiquibul home. These include the largest wildcat in Central America, the jaguar; the largest land mammal in Central America, the tapir; and the acrobatic and shy spider monkey.
But the loudest, flashiest, and rarest of the Chiquibul’s endangered creatures is the brilliant scarlet macaw, whose contribution to the delicate symphony of morning birdsong is a raucous - almost bombastic - squawk far in the distance. One of the largest remaining populations of these riotously large parrots are found in the deciduous trees along the major rivers of the Chiquibul - including the Macal - often in prodigious and noisy groups. They make their nests high off the ground in tall trees - living or dead - to protect from roving predators.
As I sip my steaming coffee beside the river, a white orb breaks through the mist and seconds later highlights a quartet of red, blue and yellow feathers barnstorming across the valley.
These macaws provide witness to the Chiquibul as the great provider of life, a breeding ground and fountain of biological wealth that is shared with the rest of Belize. That such a marvelous and mysterious habitat still exists and its tenants still thrive is, for the moment at least, a reason for all Belizeans to rejoice and be proud.
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