21/10/2026
The Ghan, Australia: Feel the Vastness
The Ghan is one of the world’s most extraordinary rail journeys. Covering a distance of around 3,000 kilometers, this luxury train connects southern and northern Australia, rattling through ever-changing landscapes over the course of three days. As it travels through the Outback, it offers exceptional service—featuring luxurious suites, fine dining, and fascinating stops along the way.
The sheer scale! The uninhabited expanse! The vastness of the Outback wilderness, experienced while traversing Australia from north to south, is as breathtaking as it is awe-inspiring. When the journey on The Ghan begins in Adelaide, the red locomotives pull the stainless-steel carriages past gently rolling vineyards and pastureland. Then, however, the landscape changes dramatically. Whether gazing out the window from your cabin, the bar, or the dining car, you see the barren Outback rolling by—red desert, trees, grass, and towering termite mounds. Above all, the train makes its way along the predominantly single-track line, pushing ever deeper into the heart of Australia, a landscape blanketed in seemingly endless bush.
Slowing Down
Of course, you can cross the "Fifth Continent" on your own. But in an airplane, you never get a true sense of the continent's vast scale. And a road trip in a rental car? That is long and exhausting—and always accompanied by the worry of breaking down in the middle of nowhere. The most comfortable way to slow down and enjoy the journey is aboard The Ghan, traveling one of the most extraordinary rail routes on Earth. After all, Australia’s most famous train is the only transcontinental passenger service connecting the north and the south. Covering a distance of 2,979 kilometers, the train travels via Coober Pedy—famous for its opal mines—and on through Alice Springs and Katherine, traversing four climate zones and 22 degrees of latitude on the journey from Adelaide on the south coast to Darwin, the tropical capital of the Northern Territory (or vice versa). Depending on the specific itinerary, the train’s rhythmic swaying and sounds serve as a lullaby for passengers over the course of two or three nights.
The Ghan is no ordinary scheduled service; rather, it is a luxury train steeped in history that offers all-inclusive amenities on board. Three meals are served daily, featuring exquisite multi-course dinners in the evening. Drinks—including b**r, w**e, Prosecco, cocktails, or non-alcoholic options—are available alongside, before, or between meals. Excursions during scheduled stops are also included in the fare.
The level of luxury experienced on the Ghan depends on the class of service booked. The most exclusive options are the brand-new Aurora and Australis suites, which offer spaciousness, stylish interiors, butler service, and expansive panoramic windows. The beverage selection is also more upscale in this category, featuring premium w**es and high-end ch*****ne.
While today one can traverse the continent in comfort and ease, the region remained largely unexplored by European colonial powers until the mid-19th century. It is difficult to imagine how, in 1861, John McDouall Stuart became the first European to find a path through this perilous and complex terrain. His route served as the basis not only for the first telegraph line but also, to a large extent, for the Ghan railway line—chosen largely because water was available along the route, a necessity for the steam locomotives of that era. A Stop in Alice Springs
Laying tracks across this landscape was a mammoth undertaking that—punctuated by long pauses—would ultimately span more than a century. Work on the line began in 1878 but stalled at Oodnadatta, only to resume there forty years later. In the interim, cameleers from Afghanistan maintained a transport network, guiding caravans that carried people and goods to and from the Red Centre. The various names the Ghan has borne throughout its history reflect this legacy—ranging from "The Afghan Express" to "The Royal Ghan." In 1929, the narrow-gauge railway finally reached Alice Springs, the heart of Australia. On the second day of the modern-day Ghan journey, the train makes an extended stop in this Outback capital. The town originated around the old telegraph station, which is now an open-air museum. Alice Springs was also the destination for the three drag queens in the road movie *Priscilla, Queen of the Desert*. Around 30,000 people live here, far removed from almost everything else. Yet, there is plenty for travelers to discover—from galleries showcasing Aboriginal art to the Kangaroo Sanctuary, where rescued joey marsupials are raised with great care and affection.
If you decide to take a trip to the Royal Flying Doctor Service museum in Alice Springs, you will get an insight into how medical care works in such a large, very sparsely populated region. However, if you hope to see Uluru, i.e. Ayers Rock, on the Ghan journey, it is still a few hundred kilometers away and therefore too far away. But you can take a trip to the surrounding area of Alice Springs - to the MacDonnell Ranges. The destination in the over 600 kilometer long mountain range is the Simpsons Gap, a gorge with steep cliffs that is still an important spiritual place for the Arrernte natives today. In front of it there is a waterhole where, with a bit of luck, you can observe the wallabies, smaller marsupials from the kangaroo family, which are perfectly camouflaged and hiding in the rock.
Far from civilization
From Alice Springs, however, the Ghan did not go further north for many decades. Further construction only began in 2001, and in 2004 the transcontinental connection finally reached as far as Darwin. In this most recent section, traces of human civilization are barely visible. “The train travels through a landscape where people normally hardly get to,” says Tom Borthwick. The 31-year-old is on board the Journey Manager and ensures that everything runs smoothly for the passengers. "We also have a lot of q***r guests, there are also a lot of q***r people in the crew, especially in my team. The more colorful, the better," says Borthwick, himself bisexual, as the train with 31 carriages, 202 guests and 37 crew members jerks through the landscape. After Alice Springs, Katherine is the first larger small town with a population of just 10,000. This is the last scheduled stop including the excursion. After a short drive through the city center, the bus heads to Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park, where everyone transfers to boats. “Strictly speaking, there are 13 gorges that wind, weather, rain and erosion have eaten into the sandstone in the Arnhem Plateau,” explains the guide as the journey through the rocky landscape begins. “Depending on the season, two types of crocodiles live in the river: freshwater crocodiles in the rainy season and now the larger, much more aggressive saltwater crocodiles in the dry season.”
However, none of the impressive giant reptiles, of which there are more than 100,000 in the Northern Territory, can be seen on the tour. This only changes at the end of the tour at lunch, when crocodile tail is served alongside kangaroo fillet and barramundi ceviche. Then it continues for around 300 kilometers, first through bushland again, then through an increasingly lush green landscape of the so-called Top End. It's hot when you arrive in Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory. And tropically humid. With 100,000 inhabitants, Darwin is by far the largest city in the north and has a lively LGBTQ community, but you shouldn't expect a lavish q***r nightlife. Until a while ago there was a nightclub, but now you can at least find some q***r-friendly locations. Above all, the city on the Timor Sea is a starting point for expanding further: to Kakadu National Park or Litchfield National Park, to explore a completely different side of Australia after the red center and the eternal bushland.
www.journeybeyondrail.com.au