25/05/2025
This must be the most comprehensive reviews we've ever had. Thank you Joe for taking the time and trouble, and for your wonderful pictures, shared here.
Staying at the Writer’s Retreat in Montolieu. You can find the place at: https://www.writersretreatinfrance.com/ or https://www.facebook.com/frenchwritersretreat
The Writer’s Retreat, the Montolieu home of Neil Watson Neil and Jane Watson Jane, is a truly unique and magical place. Situated in a quaint village, among the many independent bookshops of Montolieu, the property spans two floors and boasts a terrace overlooking lush greenery extending towards the neighbouring village of Moussoulens.
The retreat is tastefully decorated with an eclectic mix of furniture styles, with shabby chic pieces being the most distinctive. Jane’s paintings ( https://www.janewatsonart.co.uk/ ) add a personal and unique touch throughout the house; they are thoughtfully placed in every room, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
The bedrooms continue this theme, furnished entirely in shabby chic style, further enhancing the homely and cosy ambiance. Carefully chosen details, such as vintage lamps and complementary accessories, complete the décor beautifully.
The entire house feels lived-in and inviting, but perhaps the most enchanting space is the kitchen. With its stone flooring and medieval charm, it evokes the feeling of stepping back in time — perhaps a hundred years ago. The layout of the utensils and appliances, combined with the overall design, lends an authentic French character to the space.
Two flights of wooden stairs connect the floors, adding to the retreat’s rustic appeal. Throughout the house, antiques and Jane’s paintings are scattered thoughtfully, giving each corner its own story and a distinctive je ne sais quoi.
Reaching the top floor, guests are rewarded with the highlight of the retreat — a generously sized terrace that comfortably accommodates around eight people. From here, the views are breath-taking: endless greenery stretches out towards distant vineyards. The sound of birdsong fills the air, their melodies creating a magical soundtrack that elevates the experience. If you listen closely, the distinctive call of a cuckoo can also be heard. It’s easy to lose track of time while relaxing on the terrace.
Montolieu itself is a charming medieval village with narrow, stone-paved streets lined with independent bookshops. Each shop is welcoming, with friendly smiles and a cheerful "bonjour" that immediately makes visitors feel at home. The architecture, particularly the windows and façades, appears frozen in time, each building telling its own silent story to those who pause to observe.
Among the shops are artisanal bakeries and other delightful boutiques. During our stay, thanks to Neil, we had the pleasure of meeting Adrian Mould, the owner of La Cave des Oliviers ( https://www.lacavedesoliviers.fr/ ), a wonderful wine shop supplying local restaurants and shops. Adrian’s deep knowledge of wines and his passion for the local vineyards were evident as he graciously answered customers’ questions. His shop is lined from floor to ceiling with wine bottles, and a small table is tucked away at the back for tastings — an experience not to be missed.
For those who enjoy walking, the Moulins de la Dure trail ( https://rando.grand-carcassonne-tourisme.fr/.../38-The... ) is a must. It took us around three hours to complete, not because of the distance, but because we paused often to admire the breath-taking views. The path gradually rises, offering stunning vistas of Montolieu and the surrounding countryside, with the sound of the Dure river accompanying us along the way. The old mills (moulins) along the trail were once used for paper production, adding a fascinating historical element to the walk.
In the heart of Montolieu stands the beautiful St. André Church, a landmark well worth visiting. Another rewarding walk is the St. Roch trail ( https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-montolieu-et-la.../ ) , which quickly leads to elevated ground and panoramic views of the village and its green, thriving vineyards. The peacefulness of these paths creates the sensation of having the entire landscape to oneself.
When it comes to dining, Maison de Mallast ( https://www.maisondemallast.com/ ) and Chapter ( https://restaurantchapters.fr/ ) offer two very different but equally delicious culinary experiences. The friendly service at both restaurants made each meal feel like a joyful reunion with old friends. Although other restaurants in the village were closed during our stay, the local bakery ( https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100083219138242 ) and Vival store, more than made up for it with their fresh, irresistible pastries — I can still smell the warm croissants and baguettes!
Vival store stocks all the essentials, from meats and eggs to fruits and bottled water, and the welcoming staff are always ready with helpful advice for visitors.
We are already planning our next trip to Montolieu. Conveniently, the nearest airport is just 20 minutes away in Carcassonne. Thanks to Neil, we were introduced to the lovely Christine, who greeted us at the airport with a warm smile and provided our transfers for only €30 each way — an excellent and stress-free service.
