Bloasis

Gîte éco-conçu et cosy, 1 à 11 personnes,
pour passionnnés d´escalade de bloc et de Nature

24/06/2026

C’est terrible d’en arriver là…

15/06/2026

B***E PERDUE 7A 🔫 Boissy Le Plaid (Hunting area)
Happy to climb this problem I had not succeeded last year on a hot day. 😀🥵
In spite of the shade, the slopers can rapidly become hard to hold.
This morning was less warm, and I could even find a “new” beta with an undercling left hand,
that avoids using the sloppy pinch left hand, and thus relies even less on the slopers, and more on a good heel-toe cam.
The name of the problem, “Lost bullet”, humorously reminds that it is better not to climb in this area during hunting season: from mid-September until March, even if you don’t look like a wild boar 🐗😆

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip]

04/06/2026

APLATS DU JOUR 7A 🍛Bois Rond Auberge
I climbed this problem on the first days of the heat wave 😎🥵almost 2 weeks ago.
It´s on the right of Didgeridoo boulder.
I cheated 🤥a bit for the (morpho) start taking the right hand higher, but then I realized it was not too hard to bring your right hand higher with a left crimp.
But the crux 😠for me was definitely the final dynamic move, from a good left hold to the top:
It was really hard to find a decent foot position, as I fell several times just trying to engage the movement with the right hand.
At the end, only high feet worked for me. 😀
I had done the right version 5 years ago, Aplats du Jour (direct) 7A+, which I had found a bit morpho but less hard than this left version.

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip]

23/05/2026

LA MORTAISE 6C 🧩Restant du Long Rocher
I couldn’t resist from trying this PARADOXICAL LINE at the end of my session with :
Such an obvious and AESTHETIC PILAR we came across on our way back.
It’s an example of a few artificially shaped rocks we have in Font, probably the result of QUARRYING .
I see it as SCARS 🤕 in the rock…
But at the same time it turned out to be an interesting climb combining natural holds and chipped rock,
With a long move from a crimp to the edge, probably easier for tall climbers, but very COOL TO CLIMB.😀
When I think of ALL THE ROCKS THAT WERE DESTROYED BY QUARRYMEN in previous centuries, it always makes me SAD. 😢

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip]

17/05/2026

ORANGE PRESSÉE 7A 🍊91.1
A less known problem in this classic area:
A strange boulder starting with a low compression, before a high blue (n°47).
Frustrating sit-start with very bad foot holds and a poor arete.
I struggled to find a solution (probably more than 50 tries in 2 sessions). 😡
And suddenly one sequence worked💡= right heel hook and left hand on a tiny crimp.
A day I felt in good shape and had unexpected good conditions, just after sending Mine de rien 7C 😉

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip]

13/05/2026

LA SOUPE COSMIQUE 6B+ to 7B+ 🥣🧑‍🚀Roche aux Sabots
A guest talked to me about this little known boulder with beautiful sloppers early this spring. 😉
First, I had to clean a lot of brambles around 🌿and brush lichen and dust.
Then I could appreciate a nice little roof just on the east side of the area, quite quiet just hearing the crowd. 😀🧗🧗‍♂️🚶🚶‍♂️
I climbed all the versions in 2 short sessions:
Here I share a few videos: Direct (7A), Left version (6B+), and Right to Left version (7B+soft!) where I could find personal beta in the described line.
I hope the rock stays as clean as I left it, cleaning all the chalk and tick marks with water (see pictures 😊)
A good alternative to polished classics, if you forget all the toilet paper laying under the rocks around. 🧻☹️

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip, Lowball climbs]

10/05/2026

LE PETIT SUISSE 7B+🇨🇭⚪️Restant du Long Rocher
ONE MINUTE AFTER 😆
A little crimpy wall I wanted to test for a long time:
A good team work with my friend Richard!🙏
Probably softer with the right beta,
I´ll have to come back to try the left beta again, but it’s in the shade only in the morning.😎

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip, Lowball climbs]

07/05/2026

ESCAPING THE CROWDS AT COQUIBUS VENDÉE
On a sunny and busy April weekend, impossible to get into the parking lot for Roche aux Sabots.
My plan B: Coquibus Vendee. Great session! Not a single climber or hiker all day!
I had already selected a few shady boulders to try, thanks to the full information available in bleau.info

Video 1: LE PETIT TOIT 7A
Nice low roof in the shade (north face).
Requires some power, but probably soft for th grade.

Video 2: CASH 6B
Beautiful overhang in the shade of tall pine trees, on the other side of the same rock.

We know that Coquibus is a sensitive part of the forest which requires respectfull behaviors, but at the same time it´s a good alternative to overcrowded areas.
Visiting alternative areas helps reduce overcrowding which creates more impacts.
Also, these less visited areas need some maintainance and brushing, otherwise the rocks and problems will not be easily available for the commuity.
I spent part of my session brushing some rocks that hadn´t been climbed for a long time.

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip, lowball, moderate bouldering]

02/05/2026

LA LOI DU TALON 7A+ 👠⚖️Marion des Roches
Sorry, the first easy 2 moves aren’t visible on my video😕.
But I wanted to share my beta for this nice low and short traverse:
We explored this problem with who found a clever drop knee beta in the crux middle section, that seems smooth in his last video. By the way, we had the opportunity to see Michel Grillère that day, who discovered this traverse a long time ago.
It stayed unrepeated for almost 20 years, and it was Michel himself who brushed it again recently!
After Richard, I wasn’t able to repeat the drop knee sequence (perhaps better suited to shorter climbers) – but I eventually found another beta:
Engaging the far right heel hook before, and using a second low undercling on the right (right hand), before bringing my left hand to the high crimp.
I had to give it my all, but it paid off to finish my session with a nice send. 😀😴

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip, Lowball climbs

30/04/2026

UN IRISHMAN A MARION DES ROCHES 6B 🇮🇪☘️Marion des Roches
Another nice little overhang close to the central Pierrot boulder.
Good choice at moderate grade, or just a little warm up… 😀
Bad sloppers for a 6B, requiring precise heel hooking.

[Fontainebleau bouldering, bouldering life, escalade, bloc, climbing lovers, Climbing Trip, lowball, moderate bouldering]

Adresse

12 Résidence Du Chemin Saint-Pierre
Oncy-sur-Ecole
91490

Site Web

https://bloasis.fr/

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