Bloasis

17/10/2026

FRANCK 7B 🪙Marion des Roches
I climbed this little roof this spring - I had already tried it several times in previous years without finding my way… another little victory! 😀😉
This problem is pretty popular among shorter climbers, with a high foot and rounded crimps in the upper section.
I found another beta that suited my body, with a lower foot hold.
The right version, supposedly easier, Bi-Steak 7A, is better suited for taller climbers )I climbed it and posted the video a couple of years back).
Always a pleasure to climb on this orange rock 🍊🪨in such a beautiful part of the forest 🌳🪾; apparently, this alternative area (without any circuit) has grown more popular/busy this year… But this rock is at the very end of the area 😆

09/10/2026

L’ÉPEE DE SABLE (ASSIS DROITE)🗡️⏳7C Beauvais Nainville
Last August, I repeated the classic 7B version which I had first climbed back in 1995.
At the time, I didn’t know how to tackle the harder “direct” version.
Now, thanks to videos on bleau.info and greater experience with the “compression” style, I was motivated to give it a try.
I came close in late August but I fell stupidly right at the top, on the final move.😔
It took another month and a half before I felt confident enough to try again.
As I’ve done with other exposed solo ascents, I used a personal trick:💡
creating “natural pads” using bags and dry leaves or moss found near the boulder, to supplement my crash pads. See photos 2 and 3
And it worked again... even though I did fall on that last move once more during practice—right at the edge of the crashpads;
Still, I managed to overcome the fear of injuring my foot again, and send it a few minutes later. 😀

30/09/2026

MINI CHELEM 7B Boissy Le Plaid (Hunting area)
I had tried this nice roof last year on a hot day, but couldn’t get past the crux.😔
I returned in June, before the terrible summer arrived… and was thrilled 🤗to send it solo:
You have to find a specific balance in the first roof—requiring max core tension and precarious footholds—before a tricky left toe-hook.
The second section (the traverse) and the finish are easier, and I was able to complete them without a crash pad or spotter.
Obs: This is a hunting area, where climbing is not recommended from mid-September to March, especially when hunts are organised and signs “chasse en cours” visible.

23/09/2026

SHUT(sit) 6C/+ 🗝️🤫Apremont Bizons
After burning most of my energy on a strange, forgotten but sunny boulder 😎, I wrapped up my session with this problem: the easiest line through the middle of a low roof.
The expansive Bizons sector certainly offers plenty of quality options, ranging from less known circuits to isolated boulders. While many require significant brushing 🪥🧹, that isn’t the case for this roof, which benefits from welcome shade and regular traffic.

18/09/2026

LE PLOMB DES FRELONS 7A 🐝 Beauvais Nainville
Although I spent a lot of time on the rocks of this area years ago, I didn’t know this nice little roof — exactly the kind of boulder I like.
As it is south-facing 😎, I hadn’t tried it during summer.
I chose it for the end of my session, once it was in the shade.
I almost flashed it, but then struggled with the move left through the roof 🥵. I was probably a bit tired and had to concentrate to find a suitable beta💡: a little knee bar, right heel hook, then placing the left foot to reach the key left-hand hold.
From there, the traverse to the left, with a good left heel hook, feels relatively easy…
# outdoorclimbing

06/09/2026

AUSTERLITZ STORY 7B+ / Boissy – Vallée de l’Église
I climbed this left roof variation in June, before the second heatwave, in this little sunny cave.
The grade may feel soft if you’re lucky enough to find the right beta and sequence — especially the tricky heel and toe hooks. Much easier with a few tips from a previous ascensionist Bérengère Lebental 😄🙏
The beta is easier to see in the second video, shot from inside the cave.
And take a closer look at the rock: a strange sandstone with small embedded pebbles, quite rare in Font. (Photos 3 & 4.)
Obs: This is a hunting area, where climbing is not recommended from mid-September to March, especially when hunts are organised and signs “chasse en cours” visible.

06/09/2026

AUSTERLITZ STORY 7B+ / Boissy – Vallée de l’Église
I climbed this left roof variation in June, before the second heatwave, in this little sunny cave.
The grade may feel soft if you’re lucky enough to find the right beta and sequence — especially the tricky heel and toe hooks. Much easier with a few tips from a previous ascensionist Bérengère Lebental 😀🙏
The beta is easier to see in the second video, shot from inside the cave.
And take a closer look at the rock: a strange sandstone with small embedded pebbles, quite rare in Font. (Photos 3 & 4.)
Obs: This is a hunting area, where climbing is not recommended from mid-September to March, especially when hunts are organised and signs “chasse en cours” visible.

25/08/2026

TAISEZ-VOUS ET MANGEZ, VERMINES ! (SIT) 7B / Buthiers ouest
After the wildfire🔥closures and heatwaves 🥵 — and a month without posting climbing videos — it felt good to be back on the sandstone. 😊
I just wanted to try this little summer boulder that had been on my list for several years.
I quickly did the sit-start from the sidepulls, as described on bleau.info. With the very good top slopers, this version felt a little soft for the grade.
But then I saw the LOWER SIT-START from the slopers…
THAT TOOK QUITE A BIT MORE WORK.
The satisfaction came from finding my own beta: a heel hook on the left sloper to reach the sidepulls in control and complete the full low start.
There is also a small left-foot lock for the first move, which isn’t visible in the video.
MICRO-BETA: take the thumb off the left-hand pinch before the little dyno.
🤔One thought about sit-starts: 💡I think the starting holds should be clearly defined. Otherwise taller climbers can reach higher holds, while shorter climbers may be tempted to add a crashpad or start crouched.

[Fontainebleau bouldering, Buthiers bouldering, Bleau climbing, sandstone bouldering, sit start, climbing beta, heel hook]

25/08/2026

Même boursorama s’ intéresse à la reprise… de Fontainebleau 😀

23/08/2026 17:57:20 : Promeneurs, cyclistes et grimpeurs ont retrouvé les sentiers de la forêt de Fontainebleau après plus d'un mois de fermeture suite à l'incendie qui a ravagé 10% du massif forestier.

15/08/2026

La forêt après le feu ?

Une forêt réduite en cendres n’est pas forcément une forêt morte. S...