The Old Post Office, Wensleydale

The Old Post Office, Wensleydale The Old Post Office is a delightful 3 bedroom, self catering holiday cottage
to sleep 6 people in the picturesque village of Bainbridge in Wensleydale;

A spacious detached property, around 260 years old, with lots of character including beamed ceilings, flagged floors and an open fireplace. The cottage benefits from full oil fired central heating and double glazing throughout. Ideally situated for exploring Wensleydale,The Yorkshire Dales and surrounding area or simply relaxing in the lovely village of Bainbridge.

Some myths and some facts about lovely Semerwater. There’s also a great walk to and around the lake from The Old Post Of...
02/09/2026

Some myths and some facts about lovely Semerwater. There’s also a great walk to and around the lake from The Old Post Office and back.

SEMERWATER — THE YORKSHIRE DALES LAKE WITH A LOST TOWN BENEATH ITS WATERS… OR SO THE LEGEND SAYS.

Deep in Raydale, just beyond Wensleydale in the Yorkshire Dales, there is a lake that seems almost impossibly peaceful.

No great visitor centre.

No rows of shops.

No manufactured attraction.

Just water, stone walls, working farmland and the great Dales hills rising around it.

Its name is Semerwater.

And beneath that quiet surface lies one of the strangest collections of history, archaeology and folklore anywhere in North Yorkshire.

Because according to an ancient Yorkshire legend…

there was once an entire settlement where the lake now stands.

And one night, it vanished.

THE DROWNED TOWN

The old story begins with a stranger.

A poor, homeless traveller arrived at the settlement during bad weather and went from door to door asking for something to eat, something to drink and somewhere to shelter.

Again and again he was refused.

Until finally he reached the home of a poor couple who, despite having very little themselves, welcomed him inside.

They gave him an oatcake.

They gave him a drink.

And they gave him shelter.

Then, according to the legend, something extraordinary happened.

As the stranger left their home, he revealed himself to be an angel.

And he pronounced a curse upon the settlement:

“Semerwater rise, and Semerwater sink, and swallow the town all save this house, where they gave me food and drink.”

The waters rose.

The settlement disappeared.

And only the home of the couple who had shown kindness was spared.

The Yorkshire Dales National Park records the story as one of Semerwater’s traditional legends — and another version says that even today, when conditions are perfectly still, the bells of the drowned town can be heard ringing somewhere beneath the lake.

Fact?

Almost certainly not.

But stand beside Semerwater as the light disappears from Raydale and it’s easy to understand why generations kept telling the story.

And remarkably…

the drowned town isn’t even Semerwater’s strangest legend.

THE GIANT AND THE DEVIL

Above the lake rises Addlebrough, one of the distinctive hills overlooking Raydale.

According to another old story, this landscape once became the battlefield for something rather larger than men.

A giant and the Devil.

The two supposedly fought by hurling enormous rocks across the valley at one another.

One great stone north of Semerwater became known as the Carlow Stone, traditionally said to have been thrown by the giant.

The Devil retaliated.

His stone supposedly landed on the slopes of Addlebrough.

And the marks upon it?

Folklore says they are the claw marks of the Devil himself.

The National Park still records both the Carlow Stone and Devil’s Stone traditions today.

Geology, of course, offers a less supernatural explanation for the great stones scattered around this glacial landscape.

But Yorkshire folklore had a better one.

The Devil threw them.

AND THEN THERE IS THE REAL HISTORY…

This is where Semerwater becomes even more fascinating.

The lake itself isn’t legendary.

It is very real — and very old.

Semerwater is one of the principal natural lakes of the Yorkshire Dales, lying in Raydale, a side valley off Wensleydale. It was formed in the aftermath of the Ice Age, when retreating glaciers helped create the landscape we see today.

The lake covers roughly 29 hectares, sits around 246 metres above sea level, has an average depth of about 3.5 metres, and reaches roughly 12 metres at its deepest point.

And people were coming here long before anybody told stories about angels.

Around 10,000 years ago, Stone Age hunter-gatherers were drawn to the water because deer and wild horses gathered here to drink.

The National Park’s archaeological history notes that natural upland water sources such as Semerwater offered valuable open hunting ground as woodland spread across the post-Ice-Age Dales.

Then came another extraordinary discovery.

A Bronze Age spearhead was found on the bottom of Semerwater.

Nobody can know exactly why it ended up there.

It may have simply been lost.

But archaeologists have also considered the possibility that objects such as this were deliberately placed into water as ritual offerings.

So while there is no archaeological proof of the legendary drowned town…

there really are ancient human objects beneath Semerwater.

Which makes the folklore somehow even better.

TURNER CAME HERE TOO

The landscape later attracted one of Britain’s greatest artists.

J. M. W. Turner visited Semerwater on 26 July 1816 during his travels through Yorkshire.

The lake has inspired generations of painters, photographers, poets and writers, and the drowned-town legend was famously retold by poet Sir William Watson in The Ballad of Semerwater.

More than two centuries after Turner stood here, people are still coming for essentially the same reason:

the view.

SEMERWATER TODAY

And this isn’t merely somewhere to photograph.

Semerwater remains one of the most wonderfully low-key places to actually spend a day in the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

People come here to walk, picnic, watch wildlife, fish, swim, paddleboard, canoe, sail and windsurf. The National Park specifically identifies Semerwater as a destination for watersports, while the lake’s own visitor information currently permits swimming and a range of bring-your-own watercraft activities subject to its rules and day-ticket requirements.

There are footpaths through Raydale, including routes towards Stalling Busk and Marsett, the nature reserve, the old Roman road and along the River Bain towards Bainbridge. One route also passes the atmospheric ruins of the old church at Stalling Busk.

Anglers can find bream, roach, perch, pike and wild brown trout, with fishing currently available by day ticket from Low Blean Farm and subject to the usual licence and site rules.

The lake is also important for wildlife.

The National Park records native white-clawed crayfish here, while in July thousands of yellow water-lilies can flower across the water — once nicknamed “brandy bottles” because of their distinctive shape and smell.

The surrounding Semer Water Nature Reserve is also valued for birds, wetland habitat, walking and its sense of relative wildness.

And Semerwater is still revealing secrets.

A major programme of scientific work reported in 2025 investigated the lake’s water quality, depth, wildlife and the layers of sediment accumulated beneath it — sediments that effectively preserve a record of how the surrounding landscape has changed through time. The wider Semerwater SSSI covers around 101 hectares.

So scientists are quite literally still investigating what lies beneath Semerwater.

Perhaps not church bells and drowned streets.

But history nonetheless.

IF YOU VISIT…

Don’t expect a polished tourist attraction.

That’s part of its appeal.

The lakeside is associated with Low Blean Farm, and current visitor information says parking and various activities operate through the farm’s ticket arrangements. There are no changing rooms or toilets at the swimming area, and people entering the water need to take cold-water conditions seriously; the National Park warns that Dales waters can remain dangerously cold even in warm weather.

For paddleboards, kayaks, canoes and sailing craft, the current site rules require appropriate day tickets and third-party liability insurance, and there is no equipment hire at the lake, so check the latest arrangements before travelling.

And remember:

Raydale isn’t scenery built for visitors.

It’s a working Yorkshire farming landscape.

Use the paths.

Control dogs around livestock.

Take your rubbish home.

Leave the stones — especially the Devil’s — exactly where Yorkshire folklore says they belong.

BECAUSE THAT IS SEMERWATER.

A real Ice Age lake.

A Stone Age hunting ground.

A place where a Bronze Age weapon was eventually found beneath the water.

A landscape painted by Turner.

A home for rare wildlife.

A place to walk, swim, fish, sail and simply sit beside the water.

And woven through all of it…

an angel who drowned a town.

Church bells supposedly ringing beneath the lake.

A giant standing above Raydale.

The Devil hurling stones across the Yorkshire Dales.

History tells us how Semerwater was formed.

Science tells us what survives in its water and sediment.

But folklore tells us something different.

It tells us how generations of Yorkshire people felt about this extraordinary place.

And perhaps that’s why the story has lasted.

So if you ever find yourself beside Semerwater in Wensleydale as evening closes over the hills…

put the phone away for a moment.

Wait for the water to become still.

And listen.

Because according to the old Yorkshire story…

somewhere beneath you, a town is still ringing its bells.

📍 Semerwater, Raydale, near Bainbridge & Wensleydale, North Yorkshire

Yorkshire Dales Uncovered

The drowned town, angel, giant, Devil and ringing bells are traditional Yorkshire folklore and are presented as legends, not proven historical events.


fans Yorkshire Dales Uncovered Lake Semerwater

31/08/2026
Another place interesting place to explore in the wonderful Dales!
31/08/2026

Another place interesting place to explore in the wonderful Dales!

BEFORE HOLLYWOOD CAME TO SWALEDALE… THIS PLACE WAS BUILT BY LEAD MINERS.

High on the moors between Swaledale and Arkengarthdale, miles from the crowds and surrounded by some of the wildest country in the Yorkshire Dales, stand the ruins of Old Gang Smelt Mill.

Today they look almost cinematic.

Broken stone walls.

A lonely chimney.

Heather-covered moorland disappearing into mist.

But this was never built to be beautiful.

It was built for industry.

For fire.

For lead.

And for the men who worked one of the harshest landscapes in Yorkshire.

The Old Gang complex became one of the great centres of lead mining and smelting in the Dales during the 18th and 19th centuries.

The oldest surviving mill here is believed to date from the late 1700s.

Then, in 1846, a newer smelt mill was constructed lower down beside the beck.

Inside, lead ore brought from the surrounding mines was heated and processed in furnaces before the metal left these remote valleys for a rapidly industrialising Britain.

And the scale of the place was extraordinary.

A huge peat store once stood nearby — around 119 metres long — reputedly capable of holding enough fuel to keep the furnaces supplied for three years.

Smoke and fumes from the smelting process were carried away through long stone flues climbing the hillside.

One flue eventually ran roughly 686 metres to a chimney high above the mill, climbing more than 150 metres from the valley floor.

Imagine this landscape then.

Furnaces burning.

Waterwheels turning.

Ore being crushed and sorted.

Men disappearing underground.

Packhorses and carts moving across the moor.

Smoke pouring towards the chimney.

And all of it happening in a place that today can feel almost completely abandoned.

The works continued operating until at least the late 1880s.

Then the industry faded.

The furnaces went cold.

Roofs disappeared.

Walls collapsed.

Heather and grass began reclaiming the ground.

But Old Gang never vanished.

The remains are now protected as part of a Scheduled Monument, because this is one of the rare places where so many different pieces of the Dales lead-mining story still survive together — mines, dressing floors, spoil heaps, smelt mills, flues and the enormous remains of the peat store.

And then, more than a century after the last great days of lead mining…

Hollywood arrived.

For the 2026 adaptation of Wuthering Heights, starring Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi, Old Gang became one of the Yorkshire Dales filming locations.

A horse-drawn carriage passes the ruins near the beginning of the film.

Later scenes brought the actors back onto the mist-covered Swaledale moors.

The production even temporarily transformed parts of the landscape with carefully positioned props, additional vegetation and artificial mist — while Yorkshire Dales National Park heritage staff worked with the film crew to protect the archaeology beneath it all.

For around ten days, one of the loneliest industrial ruins in Yorkshire became a film set.

But the irony is that Old Gang hardly needed Hollywood.

The real story was already here.

Men spent generations cutting into these hills.

They redirected water.

Built furnaces.

Raised chimneys.

Stored thousands upon thousands of blocks of peat.

And worked in conditions that would be difficult for most of us to imagine today.

So when you walk through Old Gang and see those ruined walls against the moor…

you are not simply looking at an abandoned building.

You are standing inside the remains of an industry that helped shape Swaledale itself.

And perhaps that is why the place feels so powerful on screen.

Hollywood came looking for atmosphere.

Yorkshire had already spent two centuries creating it.

📍 Old Gang Smelt Mill, Swaledale, Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire Dales Uncovered

fans Yorkshire Dales Uncovered

Such a lovely place to stay for a few days ❤️
31/08/2026

Such a lovely place to stay for a few days ❤️

Bainbridge, North Yorkshire: All roads lead to a ‘poster boy’ Yorkshire Dales village

31/08/2026

Did you know we have a secret garden?
The perfect spot for enjoying nature, having a morning cuppa, an alfresco meal, reading, sipping a glass of wine or just sitting.

30/08/2026

A walk along part of the Pennine Way, then a yummy Sunday Roast and a pint 👍

29/08/2026

Such a great day out . So much to see.

29/08/2026

One happy weekend guest!

27/08/2026

It’s just along the road in Hawes. Spectacular views in all weather!

Address

Village Green
Bainbridge
DL83EW

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