17/08/2025
Just down the road from us is an other-worldly walk - no sea views, but an experience like no other….
MYSTERIOUS ANCIENT HIGHWAY: A LOST WORLD 30 FEET BELOW GROUND
Dorset is rich in ancient routes, holloways, abandoned byways, sunken lanes, and magical landscapes. But none are as beautiful, otherworldly, or enchanting as Hell Lane (also known as Shute’s Lane) in Symondsbury, Dorset.
The word holloway comes from Anglo-Saxon and means sunken road. This incredible sunken road is truly ancient. I would argue that it first began as a track at ground level during the Bronze Age (3,000–5,000 years ago). As history shows, societies rarely stray far from the paths, tracks, and settlements of their ancestors.
If not Bronze Age, then certainly Iron Age, this route would have been used by the Durotriges, the Celtic tribe inhabiting what is now Dorset, southern Somerset, Devon, and southern Wiltshire. It was the Durotriges whom the Romans had to fight to conquer the southwest of England.
This already ancient path has been further worn down over the centuries by foot traffic, horse hooves, cartwheels, and natural erosion. The construction of Symondsbury Church in the 1300s likely accelerated this process.
The nearby place name Quarry Hill indicates where the stone for the church was sourced. It would have been transported down this very sunken lane.
Just a few miles away, Bridport Harbour (now known as West Bay) was an essential trading port. It’s easy to imagine how seafood and other goods were hauled inland via this ancient holloway for thousands of years.
Photos cannot do it justice, you must experience it. The feeling of stepping into a lost world, the coolness of the sunken lane despite the 25°C heat outside, and the earthy scent in the air create an unforgettable atmosphere.
The sandstone walls are covered in centuries-old graffiti, continuing a tradition that persists to this day. Baz 4 Shaz scrawled into the rock serves as a reminder that human nature never truly changes.
Dorset was notorious for smugglers, a subject that fascinates me. The most infamous smuggler was Isaac Gulliver, known by the French as Le Contrebandier. He was the Don Pablo of the 1700s.
You can be certain this holloway was one of his many smuggling routes, used to transport gin, silk, lace, and tea from the coast into the countryside.
These luxury goods were then sold to the wealthy and noble, who, unsurprisingly, were more than happy to avoid paying taxes and duties. Some things never change!