16/04/2026
Edinburgh’s Royal Mile starts by the Castle, near the repurposed church that now holds The HUB, the administrative centre for the Edinburg International Festival. On one side are a set of stairs leading down to West Bow which may be the only reminder of the steep track up which some say animals were driven into Edinburgh long ago. The stairs are next to the Quaker Meeting House, whose men’s toilet may be a reconstruction of the house in which Major Weir, the Wizard of West Bow lived with his sister, Grizel, who was also his lover and, like Weir, probably insane.
William Burke the anatomy murderer was hung in the Lawnmarket, dead ahead if the castle is to your back. Today it is a cobbled tourist trap that included Gladstone’s Land, a 17th Century building that is contemporary with Weir. On the way down the Mile you pass the Camera Obscura, founded by a woman driven from her observatory on Calton by ruthless businessmen and a corrupt council. The observatories there are long gone but the Camera Obscura is still there. You also pass the Witchery, possible the most expensive restaurant in Edinburgh: the menu is nothing to write home about, though the décor is good especially in the Secret Garden.
Other things to note here are the Ensign Stewart pub, the Whisky Heritage Centre which as been slightly overshadowed by the JohnnyWalker Centre in Princes Street. On the cornerAt the junction with George IV Bridge is Deacon Brodies Tavern which opened long after the eponymous hard drinking, hard gambling councillor with a wife, two mistresses and a taste for low life had been hanged on the Gallows he improved, and laid to rest.
Crossing George IV Bridge Blackfriars Street is on the right, leading to the Cowgate past the Banshee Labyrinth, probably the most haunted pub in Edinburgh.
Continuing down The Mile you pass several interesting museums and John Knox’s House, allegedly the residence of the fiery preacher who opposed women being in power but enjoyed their company.
A little further bronze tiles in the road outside the Worlds End pub mark where the Netherbow Port used to stand. “port”, by the way is an old Scots word for a gate and “gate” means where people used to walk – a gait. Past here you are outside Old Edinburgh and in the Canongate where monks used to walk to Edinburgh, perhaps to sell the beer they brewed.
At the foot of the Mile are the ruins of Holyrood Abbey and the palace of Holyrood House. There is also the Scottish Parliament whose acclaimed architecture looks, seen from above on the heights of Holyrood Park, like a gigantic cockroach. The building itself is sited where a brewery used to stand and is almost opposite the house where a lunatic killed and ate a kitchen boy. The pools outside the parliament are a reminder of the Loch that used to be there.
At this stage it is a good idea to catch the 35 bus back at least to South Bridge, if not Chambers Street where you can explore the museum.