25/08/2026
A lovely write up of our church, a place where we’ve said farewell to fellow villagers, in John’s case sung with Moorland Voices on the North York Moors, listened to a lecture from the Archbishop of York, attended concerts, and taken visitors many times.
Visiting the local church may not be something you think to do on holiday, but this is one of the oldest and most historic in the country. They say it’s a “thin place”, close to what lies beyond this world, and we can certainly see why Sir John Betjeman was moved. Pevsner called it “unforgettable” too. So we do recommend you pop in!
Discover one of the most unforgettable, moving places in England -in Lastingham in the North York Moors, where one of England’s best known poets, Sir John Betjeman, declared the 11th century monastic church of St Mary to be the most moving place he’d visited.
From the outside the church seems quite humble but inside it’s home to one of the world’s oldest crypts dating back to the Norman era. It also happens to be the only crypt in England with a nave, a chancel in the form of an apse (a rounded end) and side aisles – it’s like a mini church in itself with huge pillars and three-foot thick walls, reached by going down a set of stairs from the nave.
The crypt was originally built to house the remains of St Cedd, a missionary from Lindisfarne who had founded a monastery on the site of the church. Shortly after attending a meeting at the Synod of Whitby where Celtic leaders had agreed to adopt the Roman calendar, St Cedd died of the plague.
In 1078 William the Conqueror granted a new church could be built at Lastingham and Benedictine monks from Whitby took the project on, building a crypt over the place where St Cedd was believed to have been buried. A decade later and the monks had left, deserting the unfinished church which lay derelict for another 140 years before finally becoming a parish church.
Step down into the crypt and you can see why Betjeman was so moved by it – with the calm and hushed atmosphere that surrounds ancient artefacts such as Saxon preaching crosses and the Celtic carved stones that would have formed part of St Cedd’s shrine.
Words by Amanda Brown
Image by Ebor Images/NYMNPA