15/09/2023
'WHY ARE ENGLISHMEN SO AFRAID OF CONNEMARA?' (1835)
John Barrow gave the following account of visiting Leenane in his 1835 work 'A Tour around Ireland.'
'Shortly after leaving Clifden we came upon a part of the road in an unfinished state where a party of some dozen remarkably fine-looking fellows were busily employed.
Two of them, in perfect good humour, placed their spades across upon a level with the horse's breast, and brought
us to a stand-still, declaring that we must pay toll.
It so happened my pocket was encumbered with coppers, which I threw out amongst them but these Connamara boys seemed mightily displeased, at least they did not even deign to pick them up, but allowed me to pass on, without making a single remark of any kind, though they were evidently disappointed, which I was sorry for.
We now doubled the extreme westerly base of the Twelve Pins, leaving this fine cluster of mountains on our right. The scenery here is bold, wild, and solitary and for this I like it the more .
Killary inlet is in the very heart of Joyce's country, of which Big Jack Joyce is considered to be the chief and representative of his gigantic family.
His habitation is nearer the upper than the lower end and on the south side of the harbour. It was just getting dusk when I drove up to the door in my butcher's cart.
Big Jack himself, a stern-looking man of enormous muscular power, with an arm like Hercules, came out to receive me; and on my asking if he could accommodate me with a night's lodging, he at once said yes,
He begged me to alight and walk in. I saw by his manner that he was very civilly disposed, and the first indication of it was, his intercession with Mrs.Joyce to prepare
something for me to eat.
Bacon and eggs, my old Norwegian diet, were the bill of fare and a plentiful supply of potatoes accompanied the dish to table.
My large host entered into conversation
unreservedly, and I asked him to be good enough to give me his company at dinner, but he civilly declined.
After dinner Joyce and I had an agreeable téte à- tête conversation . One of the first subjects he discussed was the dread that our countrymen seem to have of travelling through Connamara.
He said he really believed that all who had gone through his country expected to have their throats cut, and asked me if I had entertained no fears myself. I told him none whatever, but admitted that my friends in England had cautioned me not to enter his country alone.
This amused Joyce amazingly, observing that he supposed the people of England thought them all savages but he hoped now that, for the last two or three years,
the ice had been broken, his countrymen would be better known.
I can only say, from the short experience I have had , that in no part of the country have I hitherto met with people more harmless or better disposed.
On his questioning me closely as to the treatment I had experienced , and what I thought of his countrymen, I told him they appeared to me an uncommonly fine race of men, very good-humoured, and extremely respectful and polite in their behaviour to strangers.
Joyce seemed to think it odd that these
parts should so long be held in such ill-repute, and supposed it could only be owing to certain parties wishing to keep folks away from it, by giving it a bad name but he was glad to find that a change was fast taking place.
Time passed very pleasantly, and I could have sat up talking with mine host till a late hour, but he would not allow me to do so, observing that I had done a hard day's work in the way of travelling, and must necessarily be fatigued, and therefore he sent me off to bed to get a good night's
rest.
I had not been in bed many minutes when I
heard in the kitchen, hard by, some comic singing going forward in a man's voice he seemed to have some humour in him, and succeeded at least in affording much amusement to his audience, whom
he kept in a roar of laughter, and I fancied I could particularly distinguish the stentorian lungs of Jack Joyce himself.
If I had been somewhat less fatigued, I should have almost felt disposed to leave
my couch and join the merry group ; but as it was I remained quiet, listening to what was going forward.
After two or three songs all was suddenly still, and, falling into the arms of Morpheus, I heard no more.'
Picture 'Killary Bay, Connemara,' by Paul Henry.
