15/08/2026
An Independence Day Fish Collection at Chhayabrita
There’s so much talk going on about buying local, buying Indian, etc., that a certain narrative of local cuisine seems lost in the miasma of lifestyle products like fashion-clothing, cosmetics, decorative articles, etc., that have taken centrestage in this discussion of what sovereignty constitutes in our day-to-day aesthetic lives.
Have you been to Shantiniketan lately? Whether you take Sriniketan Road or Station Road from Bolpur, you’ll be met with a barrage of signboards, LED ones included, advertising everything from soaps to jewellery. Then when the toto bumpily takes you to your destination, you’ll be accosted by a plethora of Fried Chicken, a huge Domino’s Pizza, and, of course, a spattering of so-called Chinese restaurants.
As if that were not enough, you’ll find self-styled ‘deluxe’ homestays advertising cafés the menu of which those au courant about haute cuisine will know to be hollow and pretentious, and those who are hollow and pretentious will regard as aspirational.
In the middle of all this, we appeal to you to visit either the Bolpur bazaar or the Sriniketan daily farmer’s market. It’s a chore, but one that’ll end in a rich bounty of victuals that are fresh and local and rare to find in big cities.
We visited the former (mostly the fish market) this morning and look what we ended up with.
• Fresh mussels (jhinuk)
• Riverine Bachha
• Lacustrine Mini Tyangra
• Stingray Roe (Shankar Machher Dim)
• Dishi Pabda (naturally bred)
At Chhayabrita, you’re eating not just local but also eclectic. Eschewing the grand and showy is always pleasant and rewarding here because the produce is local, the catch is local (unless you want Hilsa), and the cooking has a local flavour imparted to it in no small part by the Birbhum water and, of course, Bapi’s culinary skills.
Today’s Independence Day Special fish collection at Chhayabrita is nothing but a clear indication of the vernacular upstaging the global ubiquitous as far as food is concerned. This too is a stellar example of the expression of freedom through the food of our choice. We choose local. When you’re here, perhaps you will too.