Calanga Phati Eco Camp Mozambique

20/10/2026

Reverse Searing a Juicy Sirloin. It is me again, from Calanga Phati Eco Camp. Firstly, I warm the thick juicy sirloin to an internal temperature of 46 degree C using the exclusive Flame Master Grid Holder. When it reaches temperature, I lower the adjustable grid holder to horizontal to put a crust on the sirloin on both sides. Internal temperature now 56 degrees C and then I remove it and let it rest before slicing

20/10/2026

Me at Calanga Phati Eco Camp, grilling two pork chops using the exclusive Flame Master Grid Holder. If you like braais, BBQ's and open fire cooking and you do not use the FMGH, you are doing yourself a disfavour. It is great for camping. Why not try it - you can!!!

20/10/2026

I was at Calang Phati Eco Camp. Reverse searing a juicy thick sirloin with the Flame Master Grid Holder 🔥 The best open fire cooking accessory. Why don't you try it??

17/10/2026

Winching Principles: A Practical Guide
A winch will pull your 4x4 out of almost anything. It will also break bones and write off equipment if you rush it. Winching is slow and deliberate work, built on three things: safety, correctly calculated loads, and clean rigging. This guide covers all three.
The Rules That Keep You Alive
• Clear the danger zone. Never stand in front of or behind either vehicle, and never near the line or a pulley under load. A steel cable that snaps at 4,000 kg of tension recoils faster than you can react. Keep bystanders at least 1.5 times the rope length away, to the sides.
• Never step over a line under tension. Walk around it, every time, even when it looks slack.
• Wear leather gloves. Steel wire develops broken strands, small barbs that slice bare hands open. Gloves matter, even with synthetic rope, which picks up grit that abrades skin.
• Keep hands clear when free spooling. Guide the rope from the top of your palm with the hook held loosely and keep your thumbs out of the wraps near the fairlead. Fingers pulled into a fairlead do not come out intact.
• Damp the line. Drape a winch damper, heavy blanket, or jacket over the middle of the rope. If the line breaks, the weight drives it into the ground instead of letting it whip. On a double-line pull, damp both runs of rope, one damper on each half. Alternatively: Use a lanyard. This is the current trend. Tie one end of an additional line (about 2 m long) to the connection – shackle, winch hook, or whatever is used, and tie it to the vehicle that is winched. If the connection breaks, the additional line should catch it from flying out. This is a surer and better way of dampening the line.
• Load the hook correctly. Load the centre of the hook with the tip pointing up. A tip-loaded hook can bend open at half its rating. Better still, replace the hook with a rated bow shackle or soft shackle, which removes the failure point entirely.
• Use rated recovery points only. Attach to chassis-mounted, rated recovery points or the frame itself. Never use a towball. Towballs shear off under recovery loads and become projectiles; people have died this way in South Africa and Australia. Recovery points to be fixed with minimum 12mm diameter Grade 8.8 high tensile steel bolts.
• Never tow with a winch. A winch (electric motor, gearbox and drum) pulls static loads via its gearbox. Towing adds shock loads and speed it was never designed for.

Know Your Loads (a gap in most guides)
• Most articles tell you to buy a winch rated at 1.5 times your vehicle's Gross Vehicle Mass. That's correct: a 3,000 kg loaded bakkie needs a winch rated at 4,500 kg (roughly 9,500 lb), so a 10,000 or 12,000 lb unit fits.
• What they leave out is that the rating only applies to the first layer of rope on the drum. Each additional layer increases the effective drum diameter and reduces pulling power by roughly 10 to 15 percent. A 12,000 lb winch on its fourth layer may pull closer to 8,000 lb. This is why you rig double-line pulls using a sn**ch block: they let the winch work with more rope out, on the lower, stronger layers.
Estimate the actual resistance before you rig:
Some guidelines:
• Rolling a vehicle on flat, firm ground: is about 10 percent of its weight.
• Stuck to the axles in mud: the vehicle's full weight, sometimes more, because mud suction adds load. Dig around the wheels and clear the suction first; ten minutes with a spade can halve the pull force.
• Steep slopes: add roughly 60 percent of vehicle weight on a 45-degree climb.
• If your estimate exceeds about 70 percent of the winch's realistic capacity, rig a sn**ch block with a double pull on the same vehicle
Steel vs Synthetic Rope (another common omission)
• Steel wire is abrasion-resistant and cheap, but heavy, and it stores enormous energy. When it snaps, it whips violently. It also develops barbs and kinks.
• Synthetic rope (Dyneema/UHMWPE) weighs about a fifth as much, floats in water, stores far less energy, and drops relatively harmlessly if it breaks. It's the safer choice and standard on serious recovery vehicles. Its weaknesses: UV degradation over years, heat damage from a hot drum, or the heat from friction when using a non-steel ring as a sn**ch block, and abrasion over rocks, so use a protective sleeve where the rope crosses an edge. Inspect it more often than steel.
• Drum wraps differ too. Keep a minimum of 5 wraps of steel or 10 wraps of synthetic on the drum. The rope's attachment to the drum is not load-bearing; friction from those wraps is what holds the load.
Rigging Techniques
• Single-line pull. Rope runs straight from winch to anchor. Fastest to set up, and adequate for most recoveries where the vehicle rolls out with moderate effort.

• Double-line pull. Run the rope through a sn**ch block at the anchor and back to a recovery point on your own vehicle. This roughly doubles pulling force and halves line speed. Note the geometry: you only get the full doubling of the pull when both lines run parallel. At a 90-degree angle between the lines, the advantage drops to about 1.5 times. Keep the angle tight.
• Redirected pull. Use a sn**ch block on a second anchor to change the direction of pull when no straight path exists. This adds no mechanical advantage; it only changes the angle.
• Pull straight whenever possible. Side pulls stack rope on one end of the drum, which jams and damages the winch. If you must pull off-axis, stop periodically, free spool, and re-spool the rope evenly.
• Anchors. Use a tree trunk protector strap, at least 75 mm wide, placed low on a healthy, living tree. Never wrap the rope around the trunk; it kills the tree and destroys the rope. No trees? Use another vehicle (handbrake on, wheels chocked, in park or gear), a buried spare wheel, or a ground anchor. In beach sand, a spare wheel buried a metre deep with the strap running out of a trench holds surprisingly well.
• Hardware. Carry at least two rated bow shackles (minimum 3.25 t WLL for a bakkie-sized vehicle) or soft shackles, one sn**ch block rated above your winch's doubled capacity, and a tree strap. Never join steel cable to steel cable with a shackle mid-span; the shackle becomes a missile if anything fails.
The Recovery, Step by Step
• Assess. Walk the scene. Why is the vehicle stuck? Clear mud, sand, or obstacles from the wheels. Choose the straightest pull path.
• Rig. Set the strap, shackle, and block. Check every connection twice.
• Secure both vehicles. Anchor vehicle: handbrake on, wheels chocked. Stuck vehicle: in neutral for the pull, driver at the controls.
• Engage the winch clutch and lock the drum.
• Take up slack slowly until the line is taut. Stop. Do a final walk-around and check the rigging under light tension.
• Damp/lanyard the line and clear everyone from the danger zones.
• Winch in short pulls of 20 to 30 seconds with pauses. This manages motor heat and lets you reassess. The stuck vehicle's driver can apply light throttle in the direction of pull once the wheels can contribute, but no wheelspin.
• Communication (usually left out of guides). Agree on signals before you start. One person controls the recovery and gives commands. Standard hand signals: raised fist for stop, winding motion for winch in, flat palm pushing down for slow. Shouted instructions get lost over a diesel at high idle.
• Battery and engine management (also usually left out). A winch under load draws 300 to 400 amps. Keep the winching vehicle's engine running at around 1,500 rpm so the alternator helps. A long pull on a switched-off engine will flatten a standard battery in minutes and can leave you with two stuck vehicles.
• Self-recovery. When you're alone, operate the winch with the wired or wireless remote from inside the cab. You keep steering control, and you're out of the line's path. Route the remote cable through the window, never through the door frame where it can be cut.
After the Recovery
• Re-spool under tension. Wind the rope back in neat, tight layers while a helper keeps a light load on it, or loop it around a tree strap and drive back slowly. Loosely spooled rope crushes into itself under the next load and jams.
• Inspect everything. Check the rope for kinks, frays, flattened sections, and heat glazing (synthetic). Check shackle pins for bending. Retire damaged gear; a rope is cheaper than a recovery gone wrong.
• Let the motor cool. Winch motors are rated for intermittent duty, typically a few minutes of hard pulling before they overheat. If the housing is too hot to touch, it needs a rest.
• Wash synthetic rope after mud or salt water. Grit inside the weave cuts fibres from the inside.

The Short Version
• Estimate the load, rig for less than 70 percent of real winch capacity, dampen the line, clear the area, and pull in short, controlled bursts. Slow recoveries succeed. Rushed ones bend chassis and hurt people.


Enjoy your travels and release your Spirit of Adventure!!
Martin Jooste (Calanga 4x4)
[email protected]
+27 834491024

17/10/2026

Beyond the dune footpaths, a 4x4 track winds its way to the beach, bringing you closer to the coast and the thrill of a true off-road adventure. We’ve worked hard to make the final stretch safer and easier to navigate, reducing the chance of getting stuck as you make your way onto the sand. The dunes are always reshaping the landscape, though: coastal winds regularly sweep sand across the track, lifting its level by about a metre. We keep it in good condition by levelling the fresh deposits—so the route is ready for your next beach escape.

16/10/2026

I was at Calanga Phati Eco Camp in Mozambique. I grilled two pork chops using the Flame Master Grid Holder over the fire's open flames, so I didn't have to wait for the coals. Place the fat on top so that, as it renders, it runs over the meat. Giving it a much better taste.

24/09/2026

The Importance of Vehicle Recovery Skills Part 3/3
Safety measures for vehicle recovery
It is important to apply all safety measures required for using a kinetic rope or any of the above recovery methods in the Recovery Triangle that are not green in colour. Some of these safety measures will be discussed below.
Standing close to the action
Vehicle recovery has plenty of spectator value, and everyone wants to see what is happening. It is therefore important to have someone to lead the recovery. As the English adage goes, too many cooks spoil the broth. This person should also be looking after the safety of the recovery.
If something serious goes wrong with metal pieces flying around, you do not want to be in the close vicinity of the action. It is suggested that you need at least 2 times the length of the sn**ch rope as a safe distance from the recovery activities. The person doing the recovery should see to it that the spectators are a safe distance away and should ask them to keep clear, or otherwise stop the recovery. The risk of injury to spectators is not worth it and you do not want another crisis to attend to.
Joining ropes and sn**ch straps together
Do not use bow shackles to join sn**ch straps together should a single strap be too short. Sn**ch straps can break because of the forces referred to above, and should it break, if connected to a steel shackle, it can injure or kill, or cause serious damage as mentioned above. Rather, use a soft shackle to join the two straps, or join two sn**ch straps together by feeding one end of sn**ch strap A through the eye of sn**ch strap B. Then, feed the same eye of sn**ch strap A over the other end of sn**ch strap B and pull it tight. This only takes a few seconds and ensures that both sn**ch straps are holding together firmly.
Vehicle recovery points
Some 4x4 vehicles come out with “recovery” points that look like hooks, etc. These are tie-down points, used to tie the vehicle down for transporting the vehicle. This is not a recovery point. Some owners fit their own recovery points. Use the vehicle recovery points that are connected to the chassis to attach all the recovery straps, ropes, sn**ch blocks. etc., if these are available on the vehicle. If specific recovery points are not available, investigate which vehicle attachments to the chassis are strong and sturdy enough to use as a recovery point. As a guide, look at the diameter of the bolts used for fitting the attachment; it should be a minimum of 12 mm in diameter and 8.8 stamped on the bolt. As a precaution, use two attachment points for the recovery with an equalisation strap. This will split the recovery forces in two and will prevent potential damage to the vehicle but will not necessarily eliminate the risk and danger.
Rated recovery gear
To ensure that safety and integrity are maintained during recoveries, it is important that you use recovery gear that is rated above the GVM of the vehicle to be recovered. Especially the tow ropes, equaliser straps, tree trunk protectors, sn**ch ropes, sn**ch blocks, bow shackles, winches, etc. If you must use unrated equipment due to circumstances, be aware that you may have unwanted breakages.
This unrated equipment could be the weakest link in your chain and must be treated as such. Consider options to double up on unrated equipment like straps to provide some sort of buffer or safety factor. The use of unrated D shackles should really be avoided. Mostly, D shackles not rated: If you bend a D shackle on your vehicle, it is highly unlikely that you will be able to loosen or unscrew it, and it could become a permanent fixture, unless you cut, saw, or grind it off. Bow shackles are usually rated and better suited for the multidirectional forces that are common in recovery activities.

When a vehicle is stuck in mud
The tendency when a vehicle is stuck or bogged down in mud is to immediately grab for the sn**ch strap or even tow straps to jerk the vehicle out of the muddy situation. But let us first consider three different scenarios.
• You are alone – only one vehicle, without a winch: where do you start? Evaluate whether you should recover forward or backwards. That is, going forward through the mud or backwards out of the mud. Then, start removing material with the shovel – from the front and back of the tyres is the best option. It may be messy and muddy, but that is the way it is in the mud. Secondly, use the sand/mud boards by placing them tightly in front of the wheels: the rear and front wheels if you have two sets, or in front of the back wheels if you only have one set. Then drive forward onto the boards to gain some momentum and distance. You may have to repeat the process a couple of times until you are out.
• You are alone – only one vehicle, with a winch: where do you start? Again, start with the shovel and remove the material from the front of the wheels and use the sand/mud boards as described above. If there are anchor points, use the winch with the necessary safety precautions. If there is no anchor point, you can create an anchor point by burying the spare wheel in the mud or ground as previously described.
• You have company and assistance from other vehicles: where do you start? Again, start with the shovel and remove the material from the front of the wheels. The less the material in front of the wheels, the easier the recovery. Insert the sand or mud boards. Then you can use the winch to pull you out if required. The reason for using the winch is that when you are stuck in thick mud, the slow moving of the winch gradually applies pressure until the “suction” impact of the mud on the vehicle’s wheels is loosened.
Minimise the use of bow shackles as connectors
Where possible, do away with bow shackles and other unnecessary pieces of equipment in the tow “chain”. Rather use the winch hook to attach the cable to a tree protector than a bow shackle and then the hook. Use the recovery hooks on the vehicle to connect the tow rope or sn**ch strap, rather than a bow shackle and then the tow rope or sn**ch strap. It reduces the different links in the “chain”. It also reduces the potential breakpoints and the number of potential missiles that could fly around if something breaks.
Creating “unsafe chains”
Do not create “unsafe chains” by joining different things together that should not be joined together. Typically, things of different materials like tow straps with sn**ch straps, and ropes and chains and steel cable. Different materials act differently under tension conditions, and you create an unsafe chain that can cause potential problems you do not need in a stressful situation.
The same holds for the number of vehicles tied together to recover a vehicle. This is often seen. Assume there are three vehicles, all tied together in a train with different rated tow straps, to recover the bogged vehicle. The tow strap between the bogged vehicle and the first towing vehicle is subject to the pulling force of three vehicles and can easily exceed the rated capacity of the tow strap. The next tow rope is subject to the pulling force of two vehicles and can also exceed the rated capacity of the tow strap. The same holds for the attachments to which the tow straps are attached to the bogged vehicle and the first tow vehicle in the chain. All subject to the pulling force of three vehicles! You most probably will break or damage something.
It is always better to start with the basics of vehicle recovery, starting with the shovel and then moving to the recovery board and so on, rather than a “quick fix” by hooking up three vehicles together in front of the bogged vehicle, and it is much safer.
Using a dampener, towel, blanket or better – a safety lanyard
It is common practice to use a dampener and place it over the steel winch cable to act as a buffer and protector, should the cable break. I have seen a video where they deliberately broke the steel cable using a bulldozer, and the dampener was not really effective at all. However, using it with ropes and straps is more effective. But then, ropes and straps are not as dangerous as a steel cable, unless connected to a piece of metal.
If you do not have a dampener, you can use a towel or blanket as a substitute and tie it around the tow/winch or sn**ch strap. Another option is to open the vehicle’s bonnet to act as a shield should something break.
However, the latest trend is to use a safety lanyard. This is an additional rope or strap, 1,2 – 1,8m long, connected/tied to a different anchor point on the vehicle and the recovery rope, winch cable or sn**ch strap just after the shackle connection on both vehicles. Should the shackle or connector break or come loose, the lanyard acts as a “catch” to prevent the tow rope, winch cable or sn**ch strap from catapulting away.

In all the above, think “safety”.
Enjoy your travels and release your Spirit of Adventure!!
Martin Jooste (Calanga 4x4)
[email protected]
+27 834491024

24/09/2026

If you want to have a quiet and secluded place to make and enjoy memories. Right next to the beach

Watch, follow, and discover more trending content.

07/09/2026

Hi, here is the first of 3 posts on vehicle recovery.
The Importance of Vehicle Recovery Skills Part 1/3
The Reality of 4x4 Adventures: Why Even the Toughest Vehicles Get Stuck and the Humbling Truth About Your 4x4
So you love your 4x4 and the thrill of off-road adventures. I hate to burst your bubble, but here's an important reality check: owning a 4x4 doesn't make you immune to getting stuck. Trust me, I've been there myself—more times than I'd like to admit!
There are countless reasons why even the most capable off-road vehicles end up bogged down, and some of them can be downright embarrassing. But remember this golden rule when it happens: stay calm. Panic is not only counterproductive, it's contagious and can quickly turn a minor setback into a stressful ordeal for everyone involved.
Common Reasons Why 4x4s Get Stuck
The number one culprit? Driver error. It's easy to overestimate your vehicle's capabilities or your own driving skills, believing your 4x4 is invincible. I've been guilty of this myself.
Other common reasons include.
Forgetting to engage the front wheel hubs (guilty as charged!)
• Incorrect tire pressures for the terrain
• Unexpected changes in ground conditions
• Time of day affecting visibility
• Weather changes making terrain more challenging
• Digging yourself deeper by applying more power when wheels are spinning
And my personal favourite embarrassment: forgetting to engage the 4x4 system altogether!
Embracing the Inevitable
If off-roading is your passion, getting stuck isn't a matter of "if" but "when." Rather than seeing it as a failure, consider it a valuable training experience. Yes, it might cause anxiety depending on your location, but staying calm is essential.

Learning from Each Recovery
Every time you get stuck, use it as an opportunity to:
• Identify mistakes to avoid repeating them
• Recognize and avoid conditions that caused problems
• Adjust your driving behavior
• Master all your vehicle's recovery systems (like differential locks)
• Learn to select the most appropriate recovery method for each situation
The Vehicle Recovery Hierarchy
The Vehicle Recovery Hierarchy (or Triangle) illustrates different recovery methods ranked by risk level. It starts at the bottom with the safest methods (green) and progresses to the most dangerous at the top (red)—methods that have tragically claimed lives.
When stuck, resist the urge to immediately grab the sn**ch rope (unfortunately, the most common reaction). Instead, take time to evaluate the situation carefully and select the quickest, safest, and easiest method. Always start with basic approaches like digging or shoveling before moving up the Recovery Triangle.

Safety First: The Recovery Process
Once you've selected your recovery method:
1. Discuss the plan with everyone present (including spectators)
2. Ensure everyone understands their role
3. Address any safety concerns before beginning
4. Minimize all risks
Remember that both technical knowledge and safety awareness are crucial for successful vehicle recovery. Always refer to the Vehicle Recovery Triangle when making decisions about how to get unstuck.
VEHICLE RECOVERY TRIANGLE


Always keep the Vehicle Recovery Triangle in mind when planning and doing a vehicle recovery. Part 2 to follow

Enjoy your travels and release your Spirit of Adventure!!

Martin Jooste (Calanga 4x4)
[email protected]
+27 834491024

01/09/2026

Refurbishment Of Dune House PART 2

After completing the outside shower and toilet roof, we started on the house roof.
First, we removed the grass and the grass mats. Then we removed the laka-lakas that held the grass mats - tinkukus.
We had to measure the number of lines of roof tiles that were to be used. All evenly spaced.
Then started putting on the new tinkukus and the aluminium isolation sheeting.
We then nailed the vertical brandering to keep the tinkukus and aluminium insulation in place, then the lower brandering, after which we started with the yellow glass wool insulation.
Finally, we started with the metal roof tiles