Tales From Darkest Dunedin

Tales From Darkest Dunedin Cemetery and city tours. Book at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

If you haven't already, go back a couple of posts and catch up on the history of Dunedin's first hospital. Here's part t...
13/08/2026

If you haven't already, go back a couple of posts and catch up on the history of Dunedin's first hospital. Here's part two, as promised.

The hospital in the Octagon, where the Town Hall stands now, was completed in October 1851. Clark and Garvie levelled the site, laid freestone foundations and erected the hospital. The interior was brick lined and whitewashed with tongue and grooved ceilings and a shingle roof.

The instructions were to build two wards, each 40ft long by 12 feet by 10 feet with a steam bath room with all the necessary apparatus - about 12 feet by 10 feet, with a sweating room adjoining about 10 feet square. A surgery about 16 feet by 12 feet. A kitchen 20 feet by 16 feet, two small apartments for the hospital attendants; each about 12 feet square. 2 store rooms; 2 water closets; 1 pump etc. The hospital was asked to be built of wood, brick nogged with stone foundations, weatherboarded on the outside and brick flat. And of a neat and ornamental design. I can't find a single photo so we'll have to assume that this was the case. No morgue was included, bodies were still taken to hotels. It wasn't until 1879 after the fire that took down the Ross Building in The Octagon where the Regent is now that Dunedin saw the need for a morgue and it was a small room in the previous Courthouse to the current one. As you can anticipate, it was disgusting. The next was built in the Southern Cemetery. I'm not sure where the urban legend of an Octagon morgue came from but they certainly weren't shelling out the big bucks for a beautiful, underground, stone room when the hospital itself was so basic!

The hospital was equipped with 12 iron bed-steads, 12 sackings to be filled with straw for mattresses, 12 cords, 12 palliases (thin fabric mattresses), 12 bolster cases (stuffed rolls for around a bed), 24 blankets, 12 rugs and 24 sheets. If 24 blankets and 24 sheets for 12 beds sounds like a recipe for a disaster, you'd be right. Hygienically but also politically.

Robert Williams, an Oxford educated Welshman (he had studied under Lister, the pioneer of antiseptic surgery) was appointed Colonial Surgeon by Governor Grey alongside his private practice. He was to attend Government employees, Māori and prisoners as well as hospital cases and was given 120 pounds a year which is worth about $50,000 now.

His first case was Andrew Doig. He was a prison inmate who became mentally unstable and was placed in isolation in the hospital on 24 July 1852. The next two patients used the hospital like a hotel since they lived rurally and had private treatment at their own cost and then in October - a "lunatic" was admitted at cost to the Crown. The hospital was rarely used for the first 15 months. Māori were admitted for free but Europeans only if they had a certificate from the Bench Of Magistrates - a body of local citizens appointed by the crown in case the hospital gave free healthcare to someone who could afford to pay. In 1853, the hospital advertised for a male and female attendant at 30 pounds a year, free board and rations of 9lb flour, 12lb bread, 7lb meat 1.5lb sugar, .25lb tea a week.

1853 also saw New Zealand move to a different system of leadership. Provinces were given more autonomy and were required to set up their own system of government secondary to the Central Government. That meant Otago now had the autonomy it had always wanted but had to pay for its own hospital it had never wanted and still refused to pay for until 1856.

Robert Williams was continued on in his role but now as Provincial Surgeon even though his anti government attitude rubbed the new Provincial Government up the wrong way but he took it a step too far by not agreeing to keep those opinions to himself now he was a member so he was let go.

Edward Hulme, who had also applied for the job of Provincial Surgeon was up next and the story of the hospital from here on is as much a story about Dr Hulme.

Hulme was trusted with the day to day running of the hospital by the P.G. and had autonomy over most things. The hospital hadn't grown or changed much over the decade but Hulme, who had been highly educated in mental illnesses for the time, was concerned at the harmful effects of combining sane and insane patients but also at the lack of space for mentally ill prisoners who had to stay in prison so he campaigned for a separate asylum. He was in luck because by 1861, the gold rush hit and he was inundated with 43 cases from 1861 to 63 so his lunatic asylum was granted by the Provincial Government. A temporary asylum was set up in what is now the Otago Boys Highschool playing field, became less temporary and more a permanent hodgepodge of prison-like buildings and by 1884, a newer, larger asylum had opened in Seacliff.

Between when the Provincial Government finally took over the cost of the hospital and 1863, new buildings had been added and a large, three story building for male patients. The descriptions of the buildings sound Dickenson, very much living up to the Work and Poor Houses it was derived from. Toilets flowed into a literal cesspool, buildings had outside stairs, wind blew through the roof and walls and it was largely patronised by men, men who were working class and brought a liveliness to the place, if you will. They were often hired as attendants once discharged so where the middle class complained of the run down, disgusting manner in which the rooms were kept, the working class inhabitants weren't aware they could have anything better.

1865 is when Dunedin had New Zealand's first international world's fair or exhibition. In King Street (now Great King Street, roughly where today's hospital is) was a large two-storey stone Italianate building with clock tower and a series of annexes all designed by Mason and Clayton, with a central courtyard derived from Fowler's design of Covent Garden market. By 1867, the hospital in The Octagon had moved in and although major changes were made, they were disappointing to Hulme who constantly championed for a better, cleaner and more friendly space - as most modern doctors will know well. And this new hospital still had a cesspit.

Hulme never stopped working tirelessly for the hospital and it was probably what ended up killing him - he died suddenly in 1877 amid stressful administration changes.

I could write forever about the hospital and other institutions but you may as well read it all for yourself in "A History Of The Otago Hospital Board - And It's Predecessors" by John Angus, 1984.

Further reading:
https://teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/1h37/hulme-edward/print

Hulme's residence and private practice:
https://www.heritage.org.nz/list-details/4711/Listing

11/08/2026

Are you a young person over 17 who would like to know more about the city you're living in?

It's a pretty wild history, so I'm (Lolene) doing a $10 walking tour on the 15th, Saturday at 5.30pm starting at Toitū.

We'll talk about why Dunedin is here, why it looks like this then from Bell Hill to George St we'll talk about the history but also the tales of murder and woe in these locations. Accidents, murder, su***de, corruption... You too can be extremely fun at parties!

If ten bucks is out of your budget but you'd really love to come, promise to laugh at my jokes and you get free entry.

Email [email protected] to book

Share this with young people! Send them a screenshot through Bebo or whatever it is the kids are using these days.

Here's a freebie presented by Gregor ^

11/08/2026

Are you a young person over 17 who would like to know more about the city you're living in?

It's a pretty wild history, so I'm (Lolene) doing a $10 walking tour on the 15th, Saturday at 5.30pm starting at Toitū.

We'll talk about why Dunedin is here, why it looks like this then from Bell Hill to George St we'll talk about the history but also the tales of murder and woe in these locations. Accidents, murder, su***de, corruption... You too can be extremely fun at parties!

If ten bucks is out of your budget but you'd really love to come, promise to laugh at my jokes and you get free entry.

Email [email protected] to book

Share this with young people! Send them a screenshot through Bebo or whatever it is the kids are using these days.

Here's a freebie presented by Gregor:

Dear Dunedin,I'm about to do something chaotic. $10pp and I'll give a Murder and Woe tour (true crime) of Dunedin for st...
10/08/2026

Dear Dunedin,

I'm about to do something chaotic.

$10pp and I'll give a Murder and Woe tour (true crime) of Dunedin for students this Saturday 15th Aug at 5.30pm. Approx an hour to 1.5 in length.

Send this to a student in your life (over 17, the stories are griiiim) and they can secretly learn the history of the city they're in while being distracted by the old timey tales of murder and woe.

Inspired by a pharmacy student I took out who said "I love this city even more now!" ❤️

Limited to ten people (probably), please share this and we'll see if we can get more young people to love this city and respect its insane history, too.

-We'll start at the Toitū entrance, quickly go over why Dunedin is here, who was here before then appreciate the little Fairlie steam engine and how she killed a man.

-Heading back to town, quickly stopping to admire Bell Hill, shaped by prison labour (slavery by a different name), the prison, the railway station to George Street through the Octagon and walking down, hear stories about su***des, riots, police corruption, priest corruption and I can probably throw in a nice story or two at the same time.

I know it's short notice but I'm a mother and can't think very far ahead.

Email [email protected] to book.

Yours sincerely
Lolene

PS: if we get overflow, we can stagger a second tour with Gregor

PPS: I don't care if you're not actually a student, just a young adult. "Student" captures a particular market though, doesn't it

"...an office which the Otago community have never ceased protesting against as needless, extravagant, and objectional i...
07/08/2026

"...an office which the Otago community have never ceased protesting against as needless, extravagant, and objectional in the extreme, as having a tendency to encourage and foster pauperism." Otago Witness, 16 April 1853 about the newly installed Dunedin Hospital.

As we await our new hospital (with, now three cranes!) it might be a good time to look back on Dunedin's very first hospital. But why did the Scottish settlers in Dunedin not want a hospital? To really understand, we have to go back a bit. Okay, a long bit.

The bubonic plague took place around the mid 14thC and killed roughly 40 to 60% of the population in England alone. At its lowest point, the population was 1.9 million until the 16thC it began to recover but a population boom is never without its problems and one of those problems was poverty. But why? (Is this relevant to the Dunedin hospital? Yes, hang in there!)

The population in 1530 rose to 3 million and by 1600 it was at 4 million. The rising population put pressure on resources, demand goes up, prices go up and the people just can't keep up.

Farming changed. Land owners closed in land that the villagers had used to graze animals and they chose large scale sheep farming instead of tenants.

1590s saw a series of bad wheat harvests due to the mini ice age.

Inflation - prices rose but wages stayed the same or fell but because the population increase, workers had little to no bargaining power.

Taxes increased. Wool demand dropped.

Henry VIII (8th) closed and looted the monasteries between 1536 and 1541 to fund his expensive war habit and to eliminate the opposition after he broke away from the Roman Catholic Church. He then made himself the head of the Church of England (which, no coincidence, allowed divorces). The monks and nuns had largely been responsible for charity - they provided food, clothing and shelter for the poor but now they were the poor, with no support.

All of this lead to a dire amount of poverty and something needed to be done. Enter, The Poor Laws. The next twenty years saw various laws written to look after the different types of poor people - impotent poor were aged, infirm and generally incapable of looking after themselves, they went into Poor Houses. The able bodied poor went into Work Houses and the rogues and vagabonds went into, effectively, prisons.

These houses were purposefully made to be disgusting, inhuman places so that people would only choose them as a last resort. And gradually over the various changes to The Poor Laws, they were funded by a compulsory tax and driven by austerity. By the 19thC, charity, where it once was a normal part of looking after society, was stigmatised. There was a deep shame in being poor and relying on government benefits.

Now to the hospitals.

In mid 19thC Britain there were two types of hospitals. Voluntary and variations on Work and Poor Houses. Voluntary hospitals were institutions that were funded by laymen. Doctors would work in them for free, giving them status and importance but would have private practices on the side for those who could pay for visits in their own homes which was preferable. They became places of research as well as benevolence; installing fever, eye, children and maternity wards. Prayers were part of the treatment in voluntary hospitals - to God but also to the benefactors who then had the privilege to nominate who could be admitted. Power corrupts, however and they began excluding particular aliments that seemed icky to them - namely maternity, venereal and infectious diseases.

The second type of hospital was for the 'sick poor' - people too poor to pay for the doctors in private practice. Attendants were untrained and provided a low standard of care. An importance was placed more on treating the symptoms rather than curing disease. They were filthy places that should be avoided at any cost but that was the point. The work houses and poor houses eventually became hospitals through the Poor Law system. By 1850 it was found necessary to appoint resident staff at these institutions and by 1861 the work and poor houses contained over 80% of the hospital beds in England and Wales.

So, when Governor Grey floated the idea of a hospital in the new settlement of Otago, the settlers weren't thrilled. Settlers who had been arriving on a boat who were unwell would be treated in wooden buildings at the harbour by New Zealand Company staff but the expectation afterwards was they would pay for their healthcare through private practices. They didn't see the need for a hospital because they were not going to have poverty in their settlement. This is what they were escaping. But Governor Grey gave Otago £400 in 1850 and the hospital was to serve the poor but mainly intended for Māori who were suffering from the introduced diseases (namely the measles and tuberculosis) and were promised equitable healthcare under the Treaty. The hospital was built in The Octagon where the Town Hall is now and was up and running by 1852.

However, the Central Government refused to financially support this hospital as did the Provincial Government - the Provincial Government even allowed the new Chief Constable and his family to live in it in 1855 which severely limited space for actual patients. Luckily, the majority of patients paid their own way during this time and the next Governor, Thomas Browne, paid for the Māori patients out of his own pocket.

By 1856, The Provincial Government succumbed to pressure and began to fund their hospital themselves and they hired a Provincial Surgeon - Robert Williams. He clashed politically with William Cargill, Otago's superintendent so he was replaced with Edward Hulme, a very experienced and skilled doctor although still British who the Scottish Cargill referred to as "the little enemy". Hulme took the hospital from strength to strength until his death in 1867.

That's long enough for now. Stay tuned for part two and find out what The Octagon hospital was like and why it isn't there anymore.

Pictures from The Otago Hospital Board And Its Predecessors by John Angus

What do you want us to offer for Halloween? I didn't know what to put as a picture so here's the book I've been reading ...
04/08/2026

What do you want us to offer for Halloween?

I didn't know what to put as a picture so here's the book I've been reading to make a post about the old hospital in the Octagon. Also, what do you know about the old hospital in the Octagon? What do you want to know?

24/07/2026

Family visiting and you don't know what to do with them? We'll take them! Email [email protected] and we'll take them to see the Larnach tomb before a private tour of Dunedin's most curious castle.

Your family are coming down to visit, I know they are and you are pulling your hair out thinking lordy, what am I going ...
24/07/2026

Your family are coming down to visit, I know they are and you are pulling your hair out thinking lordy, what am I going to do with them! I don't have time or petrol to take them anywhere decent?

Guess what, we do!

We're available for bespoke tours - get them out of your hair for a while and entertained by a historian guide, they'll have a great afternoon at the The Royal Albatross Centre, Blue Penguins Pukekura or Larnach Castle.

The castle is our most popular destination - after pick up, drive through the Northern Cemetery to see the spectacular tomb and hear the tragic story of the family inside it. Then drive to the castle for a private tour by your guide, Gregor Campbell then stay for a cuppa in the cafe and a nosey around the gift shop (we can drop hints for gifts for the grandkids if you give us a list ahead of time).

$140 per couple + $96 castle entrance (including building and gardens).

Email [email protected] or head to our website www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

“Give us work,” “ Give us food,” were cries that came from the crowd. “We’re not asking for booze” “I didn’t say booze,”...
16/07/2026

“Give us work,” “ Give us food,” were cries that came from the crowd.
“We’re not asking for booze”
“I didn’t say booze,” said the first speaker, “ I said food.”
-Overheard during the Dunedin food riots 1932

You might have seen the article doing the rounds lately, the one titled “Police are dealing with a new type of shoplifter - ‘everyday people’ who just need to eat” and you can be sure we have a story that draws parallels for that or we wouldn’t be Tales From Darkest Dunedin.

To start with, quickly, let’s define what ‘the gold' standard means:
“The gold standard is a monetary system where a country’s paper money and coins are directly backed by a physical amount of gold. Under this system, governments promise to convert any amount of paper currency into a fixed, predetermined quantity of actual gold.” Basically, a country must have had physical gold before they could print money to that value - and no more.

World War 1 ends. To fund the war, Germany had temporarily ceased the idea of the gold standard so money could be printed far beyond what gold was in store. France borrowed from Britain and the USA. Britain borrowed from the USA. Germany, for being the aggressor and loser now owed reparations to France and Britain and they borrowed from the United States to pay them. Round and round we go.

The US demanded loans be repaid and with cash which forced smaller European countries and Britain, France and Germany (who had reinstated their gold standard) to send the bulk of their gold bullion. They ended up with 45% of the world’s supply while France pushed hard and went from holding 7% to 27% by 1932.

This made it difficult for other countries to hold up their gold standard commitments - you could only have as much money in circulation as you had gold in the vaults.

And France wouldn’t print more money for the gold it had which kept potential liquidity out of circulation. They didn’t want to hyper-inflate their currency; they relied on Germany’s reparations.

This is enough to cause a recession so how did it go to a depression? A few reasons.

President Hoover signed the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act into law in 1930. Economists signed a petition against this idea but it went ahead anyway and it probably sounds very familiar. The USA now had increased tariffs on imports. Any imports coming into the country was subject to added taxes in an effort to encourage people to buy nationally. This upset world trade immensely and Canada retaliated - they increased their tariffs on certain American made goods and the rest of the world followed suit. International trade which had once been very lucrative, collapsed by 66% between 1929 and 1934. If America couldn’t afford to buy goods from Germany, Germany couldn’t afford to pay reparations to France and Britain who were paying their war debts to the US. US lending had been drying up since 1928 when the federal reserve raised their interest rates. The reparations system collapsed. Germany’s banking system was in crisis.

In 1928, Benjamin Strong died. He served as the Governor of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York for 14 years until his death and was largely responsible for the relatively smooth operations of the banking system at this time. His death sparked an instability within the system and the Federal Reserve decentralised.

This was also a time of extreme income inequality. The poor couldn’t afford consumer goods, the middle class were borrowing to buy consumer goods and the rich could only own so many things so would put their money into assets and stocks. The 1920’s saw a boom of industry but what good was it if no one could afford to, or didn’t want to purchase.

Another reason was reckless financial speculation fuelled by cheap credit and inadequate regulation which inflated asset bubbles that were bound to burst. And burst it did, this led to the infamous stock market crash.

Now, without Strong’s leadership, the federal reserve thought ‘nah, why should we bail out the banks’ and refused to flood the system with liquidity, the reason it existed and that, folks, is how we end up with a Great Depression.

New Zealand was a proud colony of Britain and relied heavily on trade. With this trade now in the bin, unemployment rose.

The United–Reform Coalition Government led by Prime Minister George Forbes governed under the principles of austerity. Worker camps were set up for men, they did hard labour for a lower rate than they would normally have and flat rate taxes to fund this were implemented - haphazardly so. The discontent was at an all time high.

9th January 1932 in Dunedin, 300 men led by a small group of women, marched down George Street to demand food from the Hospital Board in Hanover St to cover them for the weekend. The women were invited inside and means testing meant their husbands weren’t entitled to any food parcels since they had already recently been recipients. The women left the building. They were told “it was up to the men themselves to find some way to fill their wants” so one man yelled out “To Wardells!” The group of workers turned into a group of rioters in that very instance when they marched down to Wardell’s Grocery Store (to the right of Farmers today) and attempted to loot it. They got as far as smashing a window and creating a bit of damage, hurling bricks and other debris but the police presence was large enough that no looting took place. They lingered to protest - singing songs like The Red Flag (see link below) while someone played The Reveille and The Fall In on bugle. A community member, Mr Polson offered 10 pounds towards food packages and crowd funding began. If they could afford it, citizens put enough money together for 800 food parcels to be handed out in Dowling Street a week later. That didn’t help them right at this minute though and another attempt was made on the grocery store when a second avenue for food - the Labourer’s Union failed to come up with the goods. Trams were blocked “if the trams are stopped then no one loses but the corporation” and had to reroute. Cars were blocked from George Street unless they were daring, as was one van who broke through the crowd, ran over a woman and was chased into St Andrew Street by a mob - the van was tipped over and wrecked.

Arrests were made but the men came back a month later to a hero’s welcome at the railway station. The protest didn’t fall on deaf ears though, the hospital board stumped up with a hundred pounds for food parcels a couple days later.

April saw another round of riots - the Mayor’s wife caught up in it being tipped over in her taxi.

The depression eased for New Zealand around 1934 when George Coates, the minister of finance, among other policies created the New Zealand Reserve Bank, giving New Zealand independence over its own financial decisions.

When governments fail the working class, when that social contract is broken, it breeds political extremism. Where New Zealand then voted in the Labour Party, 1935, led by Joseph Savage, the man who said “our objective is a state of society where none will be rich but none will be poor”, other parts of the world were becoming prey to opportunist extremists that took advantage of disruption and scapegoated minorities. But World War 2 is a story for another time.

P.S. Some might say that modern economics began in 1931 when the gold standard was dropped. Nations no longer had a reason to not print more and more cash.

More resources:
History of the Wardell's building
https://builtindunedin.com/tag/wardells/

The Red Flag
https://youtu.be/sHoyoKgRq5U?si=GXSyjrHmyr9pQPk0
The Reveille bugle call
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8r5Ieh0OuQY
The Fall In bugle call
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55EEn3D-0Mo

Photo from Hocken Library. Wardells, George St, 1957

For the last few years we've been using cellphone shots to show the rest of the world what Dunedin has to offer and they...
14/07/2026

For the last few years we've been using cellphone shots to show the rest of the world what Dunedin has to offer and they've not even been very good ones 🫠

Today we went out with a real photographer and will have some swoon-worthy shots of all the bangers 😍 Josephine features on our heritage tour and murder & woe tours. She's seen a lot, that little engine.

We took some photos of Larnach Castle and luckily I'm not the photographer because all I took were photos of the gift shop. But honestly, look at these Bordallo Pinheiro dishes.

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