05/05/2011
It is only after living in another country for a while that you realize how inadequate guidebooks can be. Leafing through my Peru Lonely Planet book looking for ideas for a weekend getaway from Lima, there was very little to inspire.
“You should check out Lunahuana,” a friend suggested. The place gets less than half a page in the book so I went online instead and before long I’d discovered the perfect mini-vacation spot. Just a few hours from Lima, this small town situated on the Rio Cañete is a haven for adventure-minded thrill seekers, as well as anyone looking for a quiet weekend away from the bustle of Lima.
The river brings a pleasant splash of green that cuts through the otherwise arid slopes of the Andes’ western foothills. The place has a retreat feel to it; not many foreigners make it here, heading instead to Nasca or Huacachina, but it is enormously popular among Limeños and other domestic tourists.
And getting there is half the fun! Shunning the main bus terminals in central Lima we joined the Peruvians waiting at Atacongo on the Pan-American Highway and waited for the good old reliable Soyuz bus to pass. Sure it’s not the most reliable way to travel and it’s probably not a great idea after dark or on busy days, when you can be waiting for hours, but to paraphrase the old saying — when in Lima, do as the Limeños!
A few alfajores and popsicles later, we arrived in Cañete and made the easy switch to a combi heading towards Lunahuana. The cobrador loaded up the roof with gear and we were off. Even with our limited Spanish, making the transfer was easy enough – after all, it’s a well-trodden route. All in all our shoestring trip set us back S/.23.
Stepping off into the town plaza we were met by the inevitable barrage:
Hotel? Amiga, necesitas un Hotel?
Tours? Rafting? Rafting?
Pisco?
Pisco? That one surprised me; I’d never heard that before. It was only then that I spotted the throng of pisco stands that line the square and remembered what my friend had told me, this was vineyard region and Lunahuana’s pisco was not to be missed.
Gently turning down the various offers, including the booze, we took a stroll through the town to weigh up our options. Traveling on a budget and with a tent in tow, we ended up going for a camping spot at the Sol & Rio campsite. Setting up camp on the banks of the rushing Cañete in time for sundown I relaxed for the first time, allowing myself the pleasure of temporarily escaping city life.
Unfolding ourselves out from the cramped two-person tent, made for small Peruvian children not tall Americans, I immediately forgot my sore muscles as I took in the stunning view and the fresh mountain air; instantly prepared for a day of adventure on the river.
After a safety briefing and a drive upstream to the put-in point our group set out onto the rapids. These were level IV rapids, plenty exhilarating for relative beginners like us. During the wet months in the mountains (December to April) the river swells dramatically and the rapids become more challenging, although there are plenty of calmer stretches for the less
Three hours on the water is a thrill that is hard to forget. Our guide added to the excitement, bawling commands as we navigated the churning waters: All Forward! ALL HARD FORWARD!! My pulse quickened each time we hit a bank of water and the raft flooded over. The thoughts raced through my head; how is it possible to still be inside? A wall of water crashed over my head; ok this time I’ve had it… Yet somehow we all made it without falling overboard, not that it would have made much difference — we were soaked to the skin and thank god for the wetsuits.
But it’s not all white knuckles and freezing water. If you prefer to stay dry you can head for the hills on mountain bikes, hikes or horseback riding, all offered by the countless tour outfits in town. There are also a number of historical sites in the area, including the ruins of Incahausi which is within walking distance.
Also nearby is Castillo Unanue. This Moorish style hacienda was built in the 19th century and a locally organized tour will also take you to the Church of the Apostle Santiago and the Catapalla hanging bridge.
But after all that action we definitely needed something to calm out nerves. That night we strolled around the small square, seemingly the social hub for the entire town. Locals were out in force, many sipping from the unmistakable pisco puro glasses. The stall holders at the pisco and wine market are happy to let you taste before you buy. Most foreigners find the region’s wine far too sweet, but a few glasses of pisco made a perfect nightcap and celebratory end to our weekend in the mountains.
