10/19/2026
Well, I was hoping to write up a wide-ranging delightful essay about how we use ropes here on the Colorado Plateau, but it hasn't happened yet... so here is the short version.
How we use ropes
(This only applies to the Colorado Plateau, non-flowing canyons. Flowing canyons require a different style of ropework).
Canyons tend to have rappels. Some have a lot, some have a few. Many canyons have one or two "long" rappels, and a few or a lot of short rappels. What constitute short and long varies, but we will use 200' to be the usual long and 100' to be the usual short.
We are canyoneers, so we generally rappel single strand, and retrieve the rope with another rope, two ropes tied together, or a specialized pull cord. Some people use a FiddleStick extensively, or a SandTrap, but that is a different essay. This basic essay considers pull-through rappels only.
There are a couple of conspicuous base principals:
1. Should bring 3X length of longest rappel, in case we stick a rope and have to leave it.
2. We want to bring as little rope, as little weight as possible.
3. We want to spread out the burden of carrying ropes on as many people as possible.
4. We want to bring enough ropes that 2 or 3 rappels can be set up at one time. Which will make for more efficient travel through the canyon.
#1 (3X) is considered 'best practice'. For Heaps, running it with 2 people, do we bring 900 feet of rope? Well, no. Because we know how the canyon goes, so we can be smart about it, without risking getting stuck.
#2 (minimize rope weight) - for Keyhole, we probably do not have 3 ropes that are 80 feet. for Keyhole, we might bring 1 x 80 foot rope, and with a bigger group maybe another.
#3 (spread the burden) - usually, but if there are not long rappels, maybe not.
#4 (how many ropes) - this is largely dependent on group size. Setting up more than 3 raps at a time tends to get the group spread - as in, too spread out.
Some observations:
A. "Contingency Anchors" are rarely used. If you are leading beginners, you might want to use them. If they are your habit, sure go ahead. Insisting on using them puts up a red flag - an 'Insister' might be a Dogma-over-Understanding person.
B. "Working Ropes" - we tend to use shortish ropes for most of the rappels, the short rappels. Sometimes used for short-short rappels (ie, rappels that are less than half the length of your short ropes long). And sometimes used for short rappels, using a second short rope for the pull, or a pull cord. Working ropes are short enough, light enough, that they are not a burden to carry (in a rope bag) in hand, or quickly stowed in the top of a pack. 120' ropes are usually a good choice for that around here.
C. "Long Ropes" - usually 200 feet, maybe 300 feet, tend to be used ONLY for the longest rappels. They are more-valuable to the day's journey than short ropes, especially when the longest rappel is at or near the end. By using it only when necessary, we protect it from getting stuck or getting chewed up. (It also costs more, so we like to not use it up faster than necessary).
D. "A Variety of Lengths" - Some people like to carry a variety of lengths and then manage which rope gets used where. I find this a difficult proposition. The managing is unnecessary busywork. I like using, say, one long rope and several short ropes that are all the same length.
E. "Rope Bags" - Canyoneers use rope bags. Among other things, rope bags allow you to use just the amount of rope you need, and not use the whole rope on every rappel. They allow passing the rope forward, so it can be used ahead. They expedite deployment of the rope without tangles. And other pluses. In canyons with pools, it helps if they are of the floating variety.
Example1: Heaps Canyon, Zion
Beta: R1 is 65 feet; R2 is 210 feet; R3 is 65 feet; R4 through R20 are no more than 60 feet; Final rappel sequence: R21 is about 60 feet; R22 is 140 feet; R23 is 290 feet.
Tom Likes: 1 x 300 foot rope w/ special ropebag and drybag. 2 x 150' working ropes. 1 Fiddle Kit just in case.
Thinking: the long rope is used on the 2nd rappel, and the last. Otherwise carried in a drybag, in the strongest person's pack. The penultimate rappel (2nd to last) has a flake on it that can catch a falling rope, so don't use your 300 on that! All other rappels are 65 feet or less. The raps in Heaps tend to be spread out, so having more ropes than that is not so useful, though with 4 or more people another 150ish would be wise.
Example2: Spry Canyon, Zion
Beta: R1 is 165 feet, though there is a ledge at ~ 100 feet. There are two rappels of about 100 feet, and then 6 or so rappels that are shorter.
Tom Likes: 2 or 3 x 120 feet, 200' Fiddle Kit.
Thinking: All the raps have clean pulls. First rap can be fiddled and a rope tied on for the second part. The ledge is HUGE. It is good to be aware of which rappels are the long ones, or at least, that there are long ones so pay attention.
Example3: Hogs 1,2,3,4 North Wash
Beta: not many raps in the system. Longest rap is 100 feet (Hog3). Other raps are short.
Tom Likes: 1 x 100 foot rope, 1 x 100 foot pull cord or Fiddle Kit. No rope bags, except for the Fiddle string.
Thinking: only a few raps, spread out. The canyons are narrow, so carrying extra stuff is a pain. No real point in having rope bags. You might have to re-rig the rappels to assure a clean pull, but that is always true in canyoneering.
Comments? Notes?
