07/03/2023
It's fair to say that Nieu-Betheshda revolves around the Owl House, the home and yard that Helen Martins created. It's so often described as a macabre place of dark energy. On this, my second visit, I reaffirmed my own experience of it as exactly the opposite.
The house, to me, is a place of light and colour, with even the doors and ceilings coated with crushed glass. Yes, this may have been a counter to Miss Helen's sadness, but the result is an offbeat joy, a defiance of a village that more or less isolated her. And friends talk of her life being full of wonder and ecstasy, not just sadness. They talk of her sharp wit (maybe apparent in the Honeymoon Room, where two dolls lie on one of two single beds?) and zest for living. And there are some sharp edges, literally, in her art - careful what you touch; you could get hurt (well, you shouldn’t be touching anyway).
The yard is filled with a kind of exuberant procession of creatures, including worshippers facing east where the sun and moon rises, and retreats built of bottles. The dark place, for me, was the room where her father (a dark character, it seems) spent the final years of his life - it has no windows and the walls are covered with crushed black glass. You'll notice a sculpture or two facing this room, not with arms outstretched but with hands pushing something bad away.
Miss Helen became deeply depressed when she started losing her sight. She wrote to a friend: "Now, darling, as you get older, you realize that dying (underlined) isn't the problem .... living (underlined) is the problem. That is why you have got to live well and to the full. My agony would be to 'live dying' without being able to work."
She took her own life at the age of 78. She left us something incredible. It’s so worth the journey to get here to experience it.
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